So I've gotten the push to enter the Proving Grounds come June, now I need to put the metal to the car to back up the representation. I am putting a callout/shoutout to my fellow subaru gurus! I need your know how on what you suggest I do to put the HP on the pavement! DETAILS: 2002 WRX Only mod that I have is a cat back exhaust. This car is my Daily Driver, everything that I can do must allow the car to perform on the track and the street. (Which seems to limit absolutely nothing lol) Now the BUDGET: $5000.00 My Primary Goal: I would like to see UNDER 350 HP with the car, that being said, I don't want to drop in a new motor. I would prefer to use the EJ205 that's already in the car with supporting modifications. The Timeline for the project: NOW--March(beginning) For research, info, tips, pricing, etc... March-April(end) Begin ordering parts and stockpiling them for a bulk placement (if it's advised) May-June (Pre-Proving Grounds) Install, tune and PRACTICE! The reason for the delay in the build for those that do not know me, I am currently deployed to Kuwait and given a rough time when I will be coming home. (Early may is my HOPES) BTW, we aren't doing anything dangerous, fun, or exciting over here now that Iraq has been left, I'm no war hero, just a really bored soldier. Feel free to post up your thoughts, .02 or just anything you may find helpful for me, I'm open to all suggestions!!! I usually check MNSubaru.com 2-8 times a day when I'm looking for things to fill the gap of wasted time I have...lol (And blow my "Hard" earned dollars) Thanks Guys and Gals! The Garage: FirstGear Garage offers a lift rental, plus tools to DIY'rs like me to work on their cars, so my plan is to rent a stall and put most if not ALL the parts on while there. Perhaps turn it into a springtime "Garage Day" should the interest be big enough. I will post up a date when I set one, but for now I'm shooting on mid-May for it. Possible Parts to Pick up: Brake upgrade Flush all Fluids/replace with new (Of course) TUNE Summer tires (Shaved R compound) STI pinks or 06+ dark blue injectors or bigger... VF39/34/43/48 DW300 Fuel pump or bigger.... Parts Already Purchased as of Mar 8th: Tokico D-specs/ with extenders Swift springs Kartboy Short Shift Kit STi TMIC Exhaust Grimmspeed Uppipe Invidia Bellmouth Downpipe Perring EBC
You can run "off the shelf" spring rates and run a stiffer rear sway bat to compensate for the softer spring rates.
What event are you tryin to compete in/win at proving grounds?? That would be a help to figure that out. An auto X build will be different than a drag build and those will both be different from a road coarse build. I'd figure out which you'd like to tailor to and then go from there.
I would strongly suggest putting a 2.5 in it if you want to get anywhere close to 400 and not have to worry about the motor going if its your daily driver. Or just building the 2.0. From my expiriences and hearing of others most of the time the stock ej205 doesn't want to hold much more power than 325 or so. Just my $0.02.
Fuji- Thats more what I wanted to find out. I think I may edit the first post with a list of potential parts to order and add it as people throw out some advice. KSAL- I think out of all the event's I'd stick with Road Course if I had to build to a specific one, it would also be a better option then a drag car/autocross since I rarely see those kinds of events. Chris02rex- The only issue with a 2.5 is I won't have a lot of time when I have to put the motor in to have it built, put in, and then fix any issues with it should anything be wrong. The project is mainly ment as a 1 time build, I've wanted to build up the motor since I've gotten it, but I'm so technically un-proficient that I fear ruining the car before ever putting the wheels to the road.
Mr. Fuji please stop advising people to get coilovers when you know they have no business getting them in the first place. You know from past experience a good set of shaved R compound on stock suspension will out perform a set of stiff BC coilvers any day. tjkolb - I really appreciate your enthusiasm and motivation to participate but you're being mislead, you do not need to invest that much money in this short of a time to see the best possible results you could achieve with your current vehicle. You have to realize you wont' have the fastest car on the field and that shouldn't matter, like I said on my Subaru vs Mitsu post what's more important is you have fun. You might even be surprised at how well you do. Get your car test driven by an experienced driver let them tell you what you should do from a mechanical stand point to enhance your cars performance at it's level and not at a +300whp level. Then have them evaluate your driving, hate to break it to you but unless your car's name is "KIT" it's not going to drive itself. lol 1. Get the car to be reliable 2. Get mod's that will help the car breath (front to rear) 3. Get some good sway bars F/R 4. Get good brakes-rotors, pads and fluids 5. Get some Shaved R compound tires 6. Take some driving lessons 7. Get as much seat time prior to the event in your car on a track with a professional 8. Go into this event with an open mind and only focus on your driving not the results. By the way the Subaru community is not riding on your shoulders pal and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. You are doing this for yourself and to figure out where to go next with your speed aspirations addictions. Thanks again!
honestly a good set of sways and some decent summer tires and a basic tune to open it up a little and you would be doing just fine no parts needed.
Koni inserts is something that I haven't heard of, I'll have to look that up! The transmission has already been replaced with an 03 (used) because a friend ended up locking my stock on up in 5th ish gear (Wasn't quite in gear but wasn't out of it either) So I guess I forgot to add that to the already been done. Musashi, I appreciate all the input, my primary focus is reliability, but I also want to up the HP/TQ production. I understand that dumping money into the car is unneccasarry but it's also something that Ihave been looking at doing for a while, just looking for a more focused way to know whats good in terms of parts to use. If I crack the 300 hp mark, GREAT, if not, Oh well... I'd also love to use this as a way to gather up some of you for a garage day, help me turn some wrenches, and of course have a good time! Make it into something we all could enjoy! I would definately be willing to provide the beer and pizza, and maybe even pick up some suby swag for the knuckle busters teaching me a thing or two!
Well then I wish you "Happy Hunting!" You have a legitimate reason for doing what you're doing and I think you'll have lots of fun doing it. But on a side note for those others who might be in similar situations, don't get caught up in all the fancy smancy lingo that people will try and sell you when they're trying to speak above your head, the only thing it's good for is good business. It's your cheese and your dreams not mine or theirs, but in the end don't get offended when you're trying to defend your ego on the track and come to realize you just got passed by a lower hp vehicle w/much less mods. I look forward to seeing your car at the events.
I'd say that while you have the cash roll now, do transmission and oiling mods straightaway. Upgrade the transmission and oiling systems to prevent massive failure on the street and track. After that you should have enough left to do sways, springs, and tires. Make a reliable car that is fun to drive.
Musashi's first post is right on. Seat time and sticky tires will make you faster on the track. All other mods may or may not help, depending on your driving style and experience. That said, since it sounds like you want to mod your car and you are using this as an excuse to spend money , I'd recommend keeping it simple. You'll also want to address all maintenance items. Your mods should start with safety in mind, but I think a basic setup will fill all of your needs and will fit your budget. Before I list those out though, I have to call you out on the "garage day and something we could all enjoy." Bull****. You want free labor. That's ok, a lot of people do. Just say it. But at least offer something in return. The absolute worst case scenario that typically ends with me bashing someone's face in is when they ask me to use my garage and tools, show up, then expect me to work on their car because they conveniently forgot to mention they have no idea where to start. At least offer some cash, food, etc... Anyway, I would start with lighter wheels and sticky tires. You could buy track tires, but you can't safely drive them on the street. If the MAP event is the only one you have marked off in your calendar, skip the track tires and get a quality summer tire that won't fall apart on the track but will also last 20k miles on the street. You could easily spend half your budget here. Brake upgrades. Depending on your driving style and track session duration, your brakes are likely to fade. at minimum do pads, fluid, and replace any worn rotors. Think about future rotor and caliper upgrades if you plan to track often. $3-500 to start. Power. Simple stage 2 will be enough and will fulfill the fun daily driver criteria. Downpipe, uppipe (to delete your cat), and tune. ~$500 Suspension. If you want the lowered look, you have a ton of spring options that will work fine on the street and will be fine on the track as well. ~$300. Struts will eventually go out on higher than stock spring rates so check out tokico dspecs or koni inserts. Under $1000. If you want you can add sway bars. Personally I don't like the feel of huge bars and prefer to adjust the total spring rate with springs, but depending on your driving style you might. Maintenance/safety. Make sure you have fresh plugs, oil, fluids, etc... Check your tie rods, wheel bearings, control arms (recall), etc... and replace worn items as needed. Pick up a bolt in 4-point schroth harness or something similar. It'll keep you planted in your seat and will make your track experience a little more enjoyable. Feedback. I'm big on driver feedback items. i want to know, see, and feel what's going on around me. So consider things like gauges, shifter bushings, pedals, chassis bracing, etc... Good luck, be safe, and have fun!
Idget Thank you for your post up, first off I don't want free labor, I want my own wrench time with my vehicle whenever possible. I also mentioned purchasing Pizza, Beer and some Suby Swag for those willing to help. A lot of time's before now it was always a matter of safety and timeliness, when my transmission was completely fudged, I was looking at rebuild kits to upgrade, but no one near me wanted or knew much about manual tranny's to help guide my hand so I ended up having it shopped and a whole new transmission/clutch put in. I'll turn wrenches all day if your willing to point and say "hey, that needs to come off, this needs to go here, and that needs cleaning" give me THAT guy and I'll make sure he's never without a beer in hand the whole time!!! (Granted, until he's passed out on the garage floor) lol. I don't have a lot as far as my own tools, I get by with a small socket set, flat head, and philips with the few things rented from advanced auto or somewhere. I'm not wealthy and I'm not a mechanic, but I like to learn. The whole reason for the "Garage" day was for a gathering of sorts, to take my lack of knowledge and gain some of everyone elses, and when I get home, I'll have a few months to just relax and do what I want without worrying about going to a 9-5 everyday. I want to look at the people that ask me what's been done to my car, list off what I've done and have the pride in knowing I put the time in to make it like that. Now, for the parts you've suggested: Summer tires- I like the thought more of a good compound tire that I can take to the track and drive it home vs lugging around an extra set to the event especially when I wouldn't trailer the car. So I will probably do more research on the better tires for such a demand. Great advice. Brakes- Definatly plan to add these to the list as well, when I bought the car, it had slotted rotors but it seemed like they ate through the pads a lot quicker so I replaced them with regular rotors and new pads, I have every intention to bleed the system dry and put in some new brake oil but again, I'll need to hit the books for a "Best for my" application. Power- this is where it becomes a little tricky, I have been looking for a while now on the uppipe/downpipe upgrades so that's on the list, but I also might want to do a full exhaust while I'm below deck. I also was thinking of upgrading the turbo from the stock one, is that worth it or does the stock turbo hold it's own pretty well after a tune? Intercoolers- Are they a waste of time or would upgrading to a bigger (STi) TMIC be a good benefit? Fuel system- Upgrade the fuel pump, fuel rail, and injectors? The thought here was for the "Pink" injectors with a better then stock fuel pump, would the fuel rail's be a wise choice with that? Suspension- I don't have a machine shop, so I'm not so sure about the full details of the "Koni inserts" but I need to research them more, I was suggested by a former co-worker about the TokicoDspecs but I couldn't find much for places with them to pick up that weren't backordered with the Nuclear issue in Japan and a lot of rumor spread that they wouldn't be available for a while at the time. I looked up specs on them and they were a good match-up for the car from what's been said about them. Also in this section, I would like to just level the car out, I'm not interested in slamming the car to the pavement with how unfit the MN roads are, and I still want plenty of clearance for the winter time. Tips on springs if I found the Tokico's? Seatbelts- This is something I'll admit to overlooking, you were saying something about bolt in 4 point schroth? <--whats that? I am interested in this greatly, does it mean I need to check out different seats though? I have the stock WRX seats in it, but wouldn't mind changing those out too should the safety issue provide the right excuse haha Feedback items- I have been shopping around for a SS and new transmission bushings as well, mainly cuz I hate the long throw my stocker has. As for gauges, I don't really want much, I have the tripod gauge cluster on the dash with a A/F and a boost gauge but I could never figure out what I wanted the third gauge to be?! I prefer to watch the road more then a million gauges, they provide useful information to the right driver, but with my knowledge of them, they look more like pretty lights then anything! I know I need to learn A LOT more to get on most of your levels, so I'm a work in progress I will definitely be doing the maintenance on the car before ANYTHING new touches the car, I try to be as religious as possible about checking everything over! Thank the military for that one, we get it pounded in our heads (At least the truck drivers do) that before we even start the car to do a full PMCS (preventative maintenance checks and services) to ensure all fluids are topped, (clean for my car), tires are inflated right, nuts/bolts are on and tight, and everything works properly. I'm planning on doing a full fluid replacement when I get home as the car is due for its annual upkeep, as well as I wanna be sure that my brother took care of the car while I was away. Hopefully he slows down at some point to get the control arm looked at, I've sent him a PM about it but have yet to hear a response. PocketRocket- You suggest transmission and oiling mods, what ones? That kinda leaves me with a broad topic to research...
As for stuff to upgrade on the 2.0 engine STI pinks or 06+ dark blue injectors VF39/34/43/48 w/STI Intercooler Walbro 255 or DW300 Fuel pump A 3 Port EBC (Grimmspeed/Perrin/Others) Tune But those 2 point ooooooohs
I'll drink beer and eat pizza, oh and help work on the car....... does Kuwait still suck? I mean smell like used oil all day?
Nuke- Haven't heard about the 06+ blues before, I'll need to look into that. I'm hearing Walbro's are kinda crappily made to so I'm leaning the DW300 method. Izzy-Glad your interested in helping, as for the smell of Kuwait, I'd rather be outside my room anyday, the portopoopers are smelly, and my roommates are disgusting so I would say Kuwait still smells bad! Idget- No it was me! lol PRA4SNO- Trunk Monkey huh? lol Doesn't that add 50hp instantaneously?
06+ = 06+wrx, 07+sti, 06+fxt, 07/08+lgt (one of those, I forgot) dark blue injectors they flow as much as the STI Pinks Or if you have plans in the future, there are other injectors I can recommend
I'll hang out and eat your pizza, drink your beer and tell ya you're doin it wrong! If you're gonna go to STi injectors, I might could scrounge some up. I gotta double check, but a buddy of mine says he thinks he has 3 or 4 sets in the garage yet...
I think I'm going to start small, the STi Pinks or Dark blue's sound like they should work just fine for what I'm probably looking at for an upgrade. Nuke, could you tell me little bit about the E85 tune/performance upgrades? What does that all entail on average for what you see, as far as necessary parts?
Russell, let me know what you find out, I'm interested in supporting fellow members and take what's lying about off their hands (As long as their in good condition that is )
Do it right the first time and leave yourself some headroom. If you're already thinking e85, skip the blues and pinks and run with Nuke's "other recommendation" injectors.
Be aware, the ethanol subsidies are going away now, so E85 is gonna skyrocket in cost. But if you want to set up for it anyway, get some id1000s or equiv and you'll be good up to @500hp. That's MAXING the injectors out though with bumped fuel pressure...
If you want it and you have access to it on your daily commute, sure. I'm neutral on whether or not to go e85. All I'm saying is that you'll need bigger injectors if you do, so skip the blues and pinks.
Sounds like a plan, I have 3 stations within 5 miles of home so getting the fuel is not an issue. If the subsidies go away and prices skyrocket past premium, I'd probably switch out to the pinks/blues afterwards and retune again, so now I just need to make a decision on which route to go. Most likely I'll shy away from the E85 right now, for the simple reason of the potential in rise of fuel costs (not like everything else isn't already doing that). So I'll go with pinks/blues now and should the future look brighter for E85, there wouldn't be much stopping me from swapping later. Thank you both for your contribution on this discussion. Idget-You interested in drinking a few and chowing on pizza yet? lol you seem to have some really useful information on this topic and it might provide me with more learning with you standing there keeping Russell from drinking ALL the beer lol
You're still missing the point. Why switch back to the blue/pinks in your scenario? Why not just buy something that is scaleable for both pump and E85 to begin with? Then it's a one-time install (unless you're planning to run a huge turbo later on... which wouldn't go so well with your 2.0 anyway). For your budget and needs, you're pretty limited to somewhere in the sub 350whp range (depending on fuel, aggressiveness of tune, measuring method of said power mark, etc...) and there are only a handful of turbos that will support that number efficiently. Talk to your potential tuner(s) as they will be able to recommend an injector that will support most of those configurations regardless of what fuel and turbo you end up with. I'm usually interested in helping out but not if your garage is limited in tools like you mentioned earlier lol. Not trying to be a dick but it just really sucks when you run into a situation where you have to improvise and you don't have access to tools, extra bolts, etc... Then you have the situation where 3-4 guys bring their own tools and **** goes missing. For sure if you rented out First Gear or hosted it somewhere with adequate tools and space. Where are you located?
Those ID1000 are too easy to max out. Most I had to raise the pressure of the fuel to get close to 450hp I would say 400 If you want to go e85 On a td04, you can get away with the pinks/dark blues VF39/18g, about 740's 20g, about 850's Wanna go bigger than those?
I have no idea how much fuel pressure was raised, just that he did raise it. Guy I know is still running his stock 06 STi long block at 503whp, NICE curve, on 1000s. Stock location turbo, top mount, daily driver and he ain't nice to it.
Well I want to upgrade the turbo to something slightly better then stock but not all out, maybe an 18g in the future. Should Nuke accept it, I would like him to tune the car, I've heard nothing but good things from your work. Idget- I never thought about going bigger and just keeping it that way, thank you. If I did up the injectors as you said, without E85, would I HAVE to up the fuel pump as well? keep in mind I already want the DW300 to put in, or should I go bigger here as well? BTW-Sub 350hp works for me, I'd be happy with 300
300-350 is a nice daily driver. When you start pushing past that, it seems it takes a lot of the fun out of driving it because you have to pay attention to EVERYTHING the car's doing so much more than at lower power levels. I would probably toss a better fuel pump at it, even to run pump gas at 350 wheel. Good pump, upgrade injectors, better turbo, and kiss your trans goodbye! lol
Thats all good, I understand that with great power, comes great responsibility! I know that it will be a change from the 185 hp / 183 tq the car is currently producing to the wheel...(Dynoday a year and a half ago I think?!) I want to have fun with the car, enjoy my cruise to work or wherever, and eat my cousin's VWR32 ALIVE MUAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! lol
I wouldn't worry about the tranny too much at this point. Don't Hondalaunch the car and you'll be fine with what you're planning and the 03 5Spd.
Also, if your budget is $5K and you want to road race, get a Miata with tires, a seat, and harness and call it a day.
No thanks, If I purchase Mazda again, I'll go pick up the empty shell 87 RX7 from the farm, drop a motor in it and go from there...rolling chassis and all, but I don't wanna do THAT much work Wiring harness, suspension, interior cleanup, testing, tuning, new wheels/tires...for the hassle it wouldn't be worth it for just a race car. I know with the suby, I can use it year round and enjoy it ALOT more!
On the note of injectors and pumps. Im running modded stock 02wrx injectors and a 255 walbro and have no problems at all have been running that setup with e85 on a vf37 for over a year and a half now daily driver year round. Starts hard sometimes in the winter but other then that runs great, mustang dyno of 320whp 320wht. obviously with a tune and mbcs. Other items are a larger top mount and gutted tgvs are the only power mods the car has. Id be willing to help as well some weekend when you guys get home.
Thanks Jason! Your input is greatly appreciated, and your more then welcome to come to the "garage party" and assist if you'd like! Thanks for the information as well, sounds like your mod's are about similiar to the one's in which I am interested in putting on my car, what items did you use, brand wise? and Who did your tune? Which Dyno did you go to?
Items used power wise. 255lph walbro. modded stock 02 wrx injectors, ebay big topmount, fabbed my own intercooler sprayer, hks short ram intake, tgv deletes. v7 sti vf37 twin scroll turbo v7 twin scroll headers and up-pipe custom ebay downpipe with v7 twin scroll flange and full 3" catless ebay exhaust. Tune was done by my freind sean down in texas over the internet. When you get back and are looking for a tune i can show you how to log and borrow you a cable and he can write you some maps. He gives discounts to service men/women. Dyno used when i had it on RS motorsports dyno my tune was incomplete and had some high rpm knock so my numbers ended up at 300 300 that was with a stock intercooler and no intercooler sprayer and a different style of tuning then what im running now. my 320/320 numbers came from virtual dyno set to mustang dyno setting using a smoothing factor of 10
